Hidden in the Albanian Alps you will find one of the most beautiful hikes in Albania: the hike from Valbona to Theth. This 3-day hike takes you from one picturesque mountain village to another, across the rugged peaks and untouched nature of northern Albania. Away from the beaten track and mass tourism, the Albanian Alps are waiting to be discovered by the adventurer. Prepare for a beautiful but challenging hike, where you will want to stop every 5 minutes to enjoy the amazing landscapes. In this travel guide you will find everything you need to know to be well prepared to start the most beautiful hike in Albania: from Valbona to Theth.
Everything you need to know before the Valbona to Theth hike
The walk from Valbona to Theth is part of the “Peaks of the Balkans” trail, a 7-day multi-day trek through the pristine mountain landscapes of Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo. The hike from Valbona to Theth is about 17 kilometers and takes you over the Valbona Pass from one mountain village to another. For this hike, you should count three days.
- Day 1: You will travel from the town of Shköder (Shkodra) to the starting point of the hike in Valbona. This day you will take the ferry across beautiful Lake Komani.
- Day 2: You hike from mountain village of Valbona (Valbonë) to the mountain village of Theth (Teth) over the Valbona Pass.
- Day 3: You return from Theth to Shköder or stay in Theth for a few more days.
Some people also make the hike in reverse, from Theth to Valbona. However, we recommend taking the hike from Valbona to Theth. This is because the travel day to Valbona is longer and it is nice to have this already behind you. Besides, there is more to do in Theth than in Valbona, so you can extend your stay in Theth to enjoy the Albanian Alps a little longer. Finally, the hike is easier to do from Valbona to Theth, since the end of the hike is very steep, and you prefer to do this as a downhill.
Best travel time for the hike
The hike is open from late May to late October, with the best (but also busiest) period being from late June to early September. During the other months it is not possible to do the hike due to snow. The Albanian Alps also remain mountainous, so keep in mind that the weather is always unpredictable and can change quickly. We did the hike in early June and unfortunately had rain all day. However, it was still one of our highlights of our trip through Albania!
How do I get to Shköder?
The town of Shköder (Shkodra in Albanian) is your base for this hike. You can get here easily from the capital Tirana by public transport. You can take a bus from the central bus station “Nënë Tereza” in the direction of Shköder. The bus ride takes about 2 to 3 hours and will cost you 400 LEK (€3.9). If you have the opportunity, however, we recommend that you rent a car. Perhaps you will travel further through Albania after that, and traveling around by car is ideal. You can leave your car at a secure parking lot in Shköder during the three-day hike. We paid €3 per day for this.
In Shköder you can stay at the cozy Hotel Tradita, including delicious breakfast. You can also leave your large luggage here during the three days you are away. Many hostels and hotels offer this service and also help you arrange transfers.
What do I take with me on the hike?
You can leave your large luggage at your hotel or hostel, leaving you with only a daypack to carry during the three days. The following things you should definitely not forget to start the hike well prepared:
- Clothing for three days: make sure you have good hiking clothes for during the hike itself. Also bring spare clothes that you can wear when you are not hiking. Since you will be gone for two nights, it is also best not to forget your toiletries, a pair of slippers and nightwear.
- Rainproof clothing: make sure you have a good raincoat that is also windproof. You climb up to 1,800 altitude meters during the hike and it can be surprisingly cold at the summit. Also consider a rain cover for your backpack so everything doesn’t get wet.
- Walking shoes: there are some tough climbs and descents awaiting you over unpaved terrain so good walking shoes are really a must! If you want, you can also bring hiking poles, but for many people you can manage without them.
- Sun protection: the weather in the mountains is unpredictable. One moment it can be raining, the next the sun is burning very brightly. Therefore, be sure to bring sunscreen and a hat.
- Sufficient food and drink: often you can ask your guesthouse in Valbona to prepare a lunch for your hike. Along the way you will also come across two “cafes” where you can get something small to eat, but make sure you have enough food with you for along the way. Also bring plenty of drinks and a water bottle. You can drink the water in the mountains from the tap.
- Cash: this is very important! Nowhere in Valbona and Theth is there an ATM and nowhere do they accept a bank card. You can book your accommodation in advance, but often you pay on the spot at your guesthouse in cash. So be sure to bring enough for your nights, your food and your transfers.
Day 1: travel to Valbona
On day one of the hike, we will travel from the town of Shköder to the mountain village of Valbona in the Albanian Alps. This travel day looks like this:
- Transfer from Shköder to Komani Lake (1.5h)
- The ferry ride across Lake Komani to Fierza (2.5h)
- Transfer from Fierza to Valbona (1h)
- Overnight stay in Valbona
You can easily book this day of travel online at ferry company Berisha. They offer complete packages that include everything so you don’t have to worry. The day before, you will be notified where you are expected in Shköder. The ferry ticket will cost you €7.5 per person. For the transfer from Shköder to Lake Komani and from Fierza to Valbona, you need to add about €15 per person.
Your day starts early because the transfer from Shköder to the ferry leaves at 6:30 am. Two hours later you will embark on what is perhaps the most beautiful ferry ride in Europe. Here you sail from Koman to Fierza across the impressive Lake Komani. Find a nice spot on the ferry Berisha and enjoy the beautiful landscapes as you slowly sail along. Around 11:30 am you will arrive in Fierza where the next transfer will be waiting to take you to the mountain village of Valbona. The driver will ask for the name of your guesthouse and drop you off there. We slept in Guesthouse Bujtina Arturi and we can only recommend it! You’ll get a fantastic dinner and breakfast so you can start the hike from Valbona to Theth with full energy!
TRAVEL TIP: Valbona is a small mountain village located on one long highway. Depending on your accommodation, you will sleep close or far from the start of the hike. Keep this in mind before booking your accommodation. Some guest houses do offer a cab service to take you to the start of the hike.
Day 2: the walk from Valbona to Teth
Level: Medium ● Duration: 7 hours ● Distance: 17 km ● Elevation: 804m
Today is hiking day! You will hike about 17 kilometers, depending on where you start the hike. Start the hike on time so you don’t have to rush to get to Theth before dark. We left at 8:30 in the morning and, with several breaks, were in Theth around 4pm. If possible, we recommend you use a GPX download or use Maps.Me so you always have the map at hand offline (there is not always coverage on the trek).
In Valbona continue walking down the paved road until you reach the last hotel Fusha e Gjes. From there follow the red and white marked signs and start part of the walk through the dry riverbed. Then you continue walking on a path along the fences of old farms. Then you continue walking slowly uphill towards the Valbona Pass at 1759 meters altitude. During the climb you will come across a small cafe where you can buy something to drink or a snack.
Afterwards you have the choice to continue your hike via a winter or summer route. If there is still snow on the hike, it is best to choose the winter route (you can ask your guesthouse in Valbona). Once at the top you will be amazed by the beautiful Albanian Alps stretching out around you. Then start the long descent to Theth via a winding road through forests where you will find another small café with great views! After this café it is about 1.5h until you arrive in the center of Theth.
Once you arrive in the picturesque village of Theth, you can knock on the door of one of the many traditional guesthouses. We ourselves slept two nights in Guesthouse Flodisa where we ate the best breakfast in Albania! Real crafts are still practiced in Theth, and many locals still make their own cheese, honey and other delicacies. If you still have some energy left, be sure to take a look at the picturesque church of Theth in the evening or the next morning.
Day 3: returning from Theth
On day three of the hike, we travel from Theth again to Shköder. The night before you leave, ask your guesthouse if they can arrange a transfer for you. The next day, a minibus will come to pick you up and take you back to Shköder. This ride takes about 1.5 hours and costs 1100 LEK (€10). Most vans leave Theth around 11 a.m., so by noon you’ll be back in Shköder.
What after the hike?
If you haven’t had enough of the beautiful Albanian Alps after this hike, you can definitely stay an extra night in Theth. A must do is hike to the Blue Eye of Theth. This clear blue waterfall is a 3-hour hike from Theth and is something you definitely must have seen! The waterfall enters a pool in a limestone rock where the water in the middle is bluer than at the edge giving the illusion of an eye. A beautiful natural phenomenon hidden in the mountains of Albania.
If you really like a challenge, you can also hike the full “Peaks of the Balkans” trail. This 192 km transnational hike takes you through the beautiful mountain landscapes of Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro.
Have you also taken this beautiful hike in Albania? Let us know in the comments what you thought of it! Still have questions about Albania or looking for more information for your next trip? Please do not hesitate to contact us contact or send an email to info@snoezelsontheroad.com
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